Grapes, Figs & Exotics

Modified on Thu, 12 Feb at 4:50 PM

Grapes, figs and exotics are great fruits to grow. You don’t need to be in the Med to get a good crop of these fabulous fruits. Take a look at our planting and care advice to make sure you make the most of your grapes, figs and exotics.


Grapes, Figs & Exotics

Grapes, figs & exotics are relatively easy to grow. They just need time, love and a little patience.


Grapevines

Grapevines are perfect for growing in pots or training up walls, terraces, pergolas and other supports. They will love a sunny and sheltered spot on your patio, in your garden or in a conservatory.


It is best to plant grapevines in the spring, we suggest planting them roughly 1.2 – 1.5m apart. Dig over your soil and add some good quality compost and fertiliser to enrich the site. Keep them well watered within their first year, especially in warm and dry spells.


As soon as the grapes feel soft, they are ready to be picked. But the best way to tell is by taste! The sweeter the grape, the readier they are for harvesting. Dessert grapes should be eaten soon after they have been picked, whereas wine grapes are best pulped and made into wine.


Grape Vines care

  • In the first couple of years, your vine should not be allowed to fruit so that it can strengthen its root system and produce better crops in the coming years.
  • Before planting, select a site with full sun or at least morning sun – light shade in the afternoon is fine – and ensure that a support is in place for the grapevine to grow up.
  • Dig over your planting site thoroughly and incorporate some well rotted compost, removing all weeds.
  • For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide.
  • Prune annually in late November-December and don’t be afraid to remove up to 90% of the previous season’s growth – the more you prune, the more grapes you will have.
  • In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. 
  • Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest.
  • Do not feed in the first year and feed lightly in the second year of growth.
  • Mulch well in winter to retain moisture, and you may wish to use netting to keep birds away from the grapes as they grow.


Figs

  • Pot-grown shrubs can be planted at any time of the year as long as the soil is not waterlogged or frozen. 
  • If in doubt, err towards spring but remember to keep pots well-watered so that the soil does not dry out.
  • Shrub roots generally tend to spread out rather than down, so dig a planting hole 3 x wider than the roots of the shrub you’re planting, and mix some well rotted compost or manure with the soil from the hole and use this to re-fill one the shrub is in place.
  • We’ve found that a square hole is better than a round one as the new roots, once they reach the edges tend to grow in a circle round the circumference of the hole whereas when they reach the corners of a square hole, they find it easier to grow through.
  • Before planting soak container-grown shrubs thoroughly and allow to drain.
  • Remove the plant from its pot and tease out a few of the roots.
  • Add Mycorrhizal fungi to the roots when planting to help plants establish quicker.
  • If you’re planting in spring or summer, water well and regularly for the first few months.
  • Once planted, keep the area free of competing weeds and grass for the first couple of growing seasons.


Prune twice a year:


Early spring: remove any branches that spoil the shape, or any that are crossing or damaged, along with any suckers appearing from the ground or lower stem. If needed cut back one or two branches that have become too long and bare to a 5cm (2in) stub to stimulate new growth from the base of the branch.


Early summer: pinch out the new growth at five or six leaves. Do not prune later growth.


Kiwi

  • Plant in a sheltered sunny position, preferably against a south or west-facing wall, in organic rich, fertile, well-drained soil – this will promote the best fruit formation.
  • Protect new shoots from frost with horticultural fleece to prevent frost damage. 
  • Kiwis need a lot of room, so plant 3-4.5m (10-15ft) apart, while the soil is still warm.
  • Before planting soak container-grown plants thoroughly and allow to drain. 
  • Dig a planting hole 3 x wider than the roots of the shrub you’re planting and mix some well-rotted compost or manure with the soil from the hole and use this to re-fill one the shrub is in place.
  • Add Mycorrhizal fungi to the roots when planting to help plants establish quicker. 
  • Place your kiwi in the hole at the same level at the pot.
  • Water well and mulch around the base of the plant with a collar, compost, gravel, bark etc
  • If you’re planting into pots, place some old rocks, stones or gravel in the bottom of the pot for drainage and ballast.
  • Use the best compost you can buy and some sand or grit for drainage.
  • For best results, tie the vine to a post and keep it growing straight upward. 
  • Don’t allow it to twirl around the post. 
  • Remove all side branches until the vine reaches the top of the post then cut out the top of the vine so that it’s just below the top of the post. 
  • This will encourage side shoots which can be then be tied on to horizontal wires.
  • Prune out any dead, damaged or misplaces branches in winter.

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